Chinese Croaker Pollack Replaces Local Yellow Corvina

The Rise of Chinese Croaker in Korean Pollack Traditions

Choi, a man in his 60s who runs a synthetic resin product factory in Ansan, Gyeonggi Province, has become accustomed to receiving sets of ‘Yeonggwang pollack’ from business partners during the holiday season. Known for its addictive chewy and tender texture, this traditional dish remains a popular gift during the Chuseok holiday.

Historically, pollack was made using yellow corvina caught in the Chilsan offshore area of Beopseongpo, Yeonggwang, Jeollanam-do. However, in recent years, there has been a shift towards ‘Chinese croaker,’ leading to the widespread distribution of this alternative.

Chinese croaker, which belongs to the croaker family, is often referred to as the ‘cousin’ of yellow corvina. Although similar in appearance, they are different species with distinct price points. Most Chinese croaker consumed domestically is imported from China and is sometimes derogatorily called ‘counterfeit yellow corvina.’ It is seen as a lower-compatibility substitute for yellow corvina. However, Chinese croaker individuals tend to be larger and have more flesh, making them more satisfying to eat. When dried for two to three months in the wind, their inosinic acid content increases, enhancing umami and flavor concentration.

The most significant factor driving this shift is price: Chinese croaker is up to five times cheaper than yellow corvina.

A restaurant owner in Gyeonggi, who runs a Jeollanam-do-style establishment, said, “Our signature dish, ‘barley pollack,’ is mostly made with Chinese croaker. Pollack made with yellow corvina is so rare it would likely be sold as a premium product in department stores.”

Decline of Yellow Corvina and Its Impact on the Market

Domestic yellow corvina catches have sharply declined due to rising sea temperatures caused by global warming and indiscriminate overfishing. The waters off Yeonggwang were once known as Korea’s largest ‘yellow corvina fishing ground,’ but rising sea temperatures have pushed fishing grounds southward. Reports now indicate that yellow corvina stocks in Yeonggwang’s waters have nearly vanished.

National yellow corvina production plummeted from 41,039 tons in 2020 to 17,805 tons last year. The Yeonggwang Fisheries Cooperative’s yellow corvina sales also dropped from 10,602 tons in 2020 to 5,126 tons last year.

As yellow corvina supply fails to meet pollack demand, Chinese croaker has filled the gap due to its high cost-performance. The market share of Chinese croaker, which accounted for 47.8% of Yeonggwang pollack sales five years ago, surged to 88.6% last year.

The growing demand for Chinese croaker is also attributed to Chinese consumers, who favor its golden hue. Even domestic Chinese croaker catches have become targets of illegal Chinese fishing.

Efforts to Revitalize the Industry

In response to these challenges, Yeonggwang County plans to revitalize the industry by promoting yellow corvina aquaculture. The county announced it is pushing to establish a yellow corvina aquaculture industrialization center. This initiative aims to address the declining availability of yellow corvina and restore the region's historical role as a key supplier of this prized fish.

By focusing on sustainable practices and technological advancements, the county hopes to not only meet current market demands but also preserve the cultural significance of traditional pollack. The future of this industry will depend on balancing environmental concerns with economic viability, ensuring that the legacy of Yeonggwang pollack can continue for generations to come.